I seem to only seem to stitch up undergarments recently don't I? This project is much different than my historical wear - but an undergarment all the same. As with anything I sew, I plan on modeling this bra on my body. If that's something that weirds you out click away now. It's more coverage than most swim suits I've seen recently, so stop clutching your pearls. If you're worried about scandalizing me, remember I literally take photos of undressed people as my job.
It's crucial to see it on a body to understand the fit issues I'm having. The whole reason I wanted to even learn to sew bras were the fit issues! I had a recent fancy fitting in which I discovered Oprah was right - I was wearing the wrong bra size. I'm a 38 F, two cup sizes larger than I had been wearing. The fit in my new, 90$, bra was perfect. I purchased it even at 90$, but figured an attempt to make one couldn't hurt. I bought the crafty class and made a quasi wearable muslin out of things in my stash, save the power mesh, which I picked up at joanns. I've since placed orders for more appropriate supplies, and under wires.
At first glance it's not too terrible. It's pointy, and there's some room in the top cups because full coverage bras and my shallow wide boobs aren't the best pairing. I do much better with demi styles. If you're interested in figuring out your shape, because it makes a huge fit difference, check out the abrathatfits sub reddit. It's really helpful.
The bridge doesn't sit even close to my ribcage but it's sans under wires. I think that might be my main problem. The bridge also seems really wide. The cups are poke your eye out pointy. The band is too loose. I need to add more length to the band pieces vertically, especially under the cups. Stitching the underwire casings down I ran into some wonky stitching problems, and the casing wanted to go further than the elastic band. I'd take having to fully bone a pair of stays of elastic any day for those of you who are curious. It's pretty much the most finicky thing to sew ever.
- Decrease bridge width
- Decrease band length
- Lower top-line on the the cups
- Lengthen lower band to allow room to stitch down underwire casings
- Round out front of cup pieces to decrease pointy profile
Anyone of my readers want to give me any bra sewing hints? For a first try I'm not too disappointed! My lack of local access to supplies is the only real bummer here. I'm going to get the fit perfect though, because now I'm obsessed.