I really need to sew more separates. Shirt month over at the curvy sewing collective is just a good a reason as any to get my butt in gear and do it. I've had this rayon by Gertie in my stash for awhile now, a clearance buy that I didn't have any plans for. I managed to get this sewn up awhile ago, but didn't have time to blog it until recently. I always get ridiculously busy the closer we get towards the holiday season. In fact, these photos were taken out in the two minutes it took my boyfriend to snap some iPhone photos between getting brunch with friends and repainting the dining room. I'm trying my best to make it work. You'll have to excuse the less than ideal lighting, wrinkles, and not freshly pressed hem y'all.
I didn't make any adjustments to the Patterns for Pirates Everyday Elegance Top I toiled the main bodice and thought about doing a swayback adjustment, but the rayon I used had such a soft hand I don’t think it would have made a difference. To give you an idea on why it's essential to muslin in a fabric with a similar hand, here's my muslin versus my final top- no adjustments made between the two.
I didn’t love the instruction style of P4P. They use a photo approach, which can be much more confusing than a diagram. They also said things were optional, which honestly probably aren’t. Things like using interfacing on the collar pieces, which I wish I would have done. They also seem to complicate things. The collar attachment was strange. Instead of attaching the collar so the collar piece encases the raw hem, it give you two options- cover it with bias tape or serge it and leave it raw. I covered in it bias tape, but should I make it again I will attach the collar in a more traditional method. Another gripe I had with the instructions was that there’s not pattern piece layout. I did fine without one, but then it has you cut additional pieces using measurements. I had already cut my pattern out, put my scraps in my scrap box, and started sewing by the time I realized that I needed to cut a 2x12 piece to finish the neckline slit. Why wouldn’t you just include that in your pattern pieces? It also never tells you to stay stitch, which I did. Using drapier fabrics you will stretch out the neckline, collar, or both. Overall the instructions seem very strange, and used nonstandard and more difficult construction techniques to achieve simple sewing tasks, like the collar.
For as much as I hated the instructions. I actually like the fit of the pattern. The length works well on my body, but would definitely come out more tunic shaped on shorter people, or people with a shorter torso than mine. I like the sleeve tab, as I have shorter arms and am constantly rolling up my sleeves. The back pleat is nice in a drapey fabric as well.
I think I would make this pattern again with some tweaks. The original pattern calls for a gathered sleeve cap- I think I’ll install it as a regular, no poufy sleeve next time. I will install the collar in the traditional method for a cleaner finish as well. I will also use interfacing, as it’s really not optional to get things to lie correctly. I also did a simplified rolled hem stitch on both the sleeves and the shirt hem. It's my favorite way to finish lighter weight fabrics and is a good movie watching activity for my hands.
The instructions for this pattern were just downright strange at times. The actual pattern pieces and fit of the garment is fine though. The fit is generous and relaxed, I didn’t have to do much fitting. If you’re using a stiffer fabric you might need a swayback adjustment.